Bead Your Bedlah
July 19, 2014
9am - 6pm
Senate Room ~ Jayhawk Tower
700 SW Jackson, Topeka, KS
Huraiva is offering the Bead Your Bedlah workshop July 19th. We will start with basic sewing skills, then work on converting a lingerie bra into a costume bra in the morning. After a lunch break from 1-2 we will create a pattern and work on making the base for a dance belt. You will leave with instructions to finish both projects on your own and information on how to contact Huraiva if you have any questions.
Huraiva is offering to go shopping with paid registrants the morning of July 12th to help gather supplies. If you are interested in the optional shopping trip, make sure you are registered before July 10th so Huraiva will have a chance to pick a time that works for everyone's schedule.
You can register online for the workshop at Eventbrite or you can download the below form and mail it in with a check.
Huraiva is offering to go shopping with paid registrants the morning of July 12th to help gather supplies. If you are interested in the optional shopping trip, make sure you are registered before July 10th so Huraiva will have a chance to pick a time that works for everyone's schedule.
You can register online for the workshop at Eventbrite or you can download the below form and mail it in with a check.
| beadyourbedlah_-_july19.pdf |
The complete list of materials needed will be emailed to all paid participants, but if you want to check it out before registration, here it is.
For the bra cups:
The bra ~ An underwire bra with stiff cups. This can be hard to find for larger cup sizes. The stiffer the better, but do NOT use water or gel filled cups. I will show you how to reinforce the cups, so get the stiffest ones you can find, but don't worry if they collapse when you poke them. Don't spend a bunch of money on the bra, one from walmart/kmart/target etc will work fine. Only the cups need to fit, or you can get a cup size larger and pad it if you want more oomph. You are going to cut the straps off so don't worry about what the shoulder and back straps look like. We will also cover how to make the center part bigger (if you can only find one with a narrow connection between the cups and want more coverage) and how to add shape to the top of the cups. I recommend a color that is either the same or lighter than the color you plan to cover the bra with. I tend to get white or nude bras for covering. Note a bright orange will show through light colored fabric!
Boning ~ Boning is a strip of heavy plastic inside a cloth casing. It is optional but I highly recommend it for anything cup size C or larger (and it won't hurt anything to add it to the smaller cup sizes). Boning will add stability to your bra cups so they don't collapse under the weight of the decorations and will help the cups keep their shape. You can find boning in with the notions. It comes in a spool and is generally sold by the yard. Depending on how large your cup size is and how many places you want to put the boning (there are three possibilities) you will need 1/2 to 3 yards. Yes this is a wide range, but you will use the same boning on all your bedlah projects. I tend to buy a bunch and keep it on hand for when I need it.
For the straps (shoulder and back):
Grosgrain ribbon ~ This is the ribbon that is ribbed. It does not stretch when you tug on it, though the ends will ravel. We will use the ribbon to make non-stretch shoulder straps. I tend to purchase between 1/2" and 7/8" ribbon for shoulder straps. Like the bra, I tend to purchase white or beige ribbon (or because I like purple, lavender). The kind of shoulder straps you plan to use will determine what width ribbon you need. For halter type strap, a wide ribbon works well as it distributes the weight better. For over the shoulder or crisscross straps, narrower widths work better. Wider ribbon is easier to cover with your fabric than narrow ribbon. Check out websites that sell bedlah's for shoulder strap ideas. There are lots of options, including many asymmetrical looks. If you are a small cup size, you can also purchase a wide ribbon (2-3") to use as the back strap.
Aida Cloth ~ I've tried a number of different options for the back strap of the bra and this is my current favorite Aida cloth is the fabric used in counted cross stitch. It is fairly sturdy and doesn't stretch, especially when combined with craft felt. If you are looking for Aida cloth, look in with the needle point/cross stitch supplies. While grosgrain ribbon will work for the back strap, it isn't stiff enough to be structural, so if you need support from the bra, it is better to go with something sturdier than ribbon. I've also used buckram for the back strap, however, buckram deforms when wet and then keeps the shape it gets left in, so if you sweat while dancing your bra can end up with a "crumpled" looking back strap. Since you will have buckram for the belt, if you prefer to go that route, feel free.
Stiffened Craft Felt (aka EZ Felt) ~ This is stiffened felt, usually located in with the craft supplies. In Topeka, I've only ever seen 9x12 sheets, but online I've seen 12x18 sheets. The felt comes in many colors, so just like with the ribbon, I tend to pick white so a bright color doesn't show through my fabric. I like my back strap to be wide, so I usually get one side of the back strap out of each piece of 9X12 felt. If you like a narrower back strap you may be able to get both sides out of one piece.
Note: The aforementioned supplies will work if you want a traditional shoulder strap/back strap configuration. If you want the kind of straps that go from the cups, over the shoulders, through D-rings and then tie, you will need one width of ribbon and a couple of D-rings. I have not made that style of straps before but can give you directions on how to do so.
To cover the bra and belt:
Fabric & Thread ~ To cover the bra and belt you will need a stretch fabric. I like crushed velvet (panne) because the knap of the fabric tends to hide the stitches and it tends to be forgiving of little puckers that can appear. If you want a shiny foundation for your bra and belt, liquid lame would also work, but since it is a smooth fabric, stitches would be more visible. I try to match the color and sheen of my fabric when choosing my thread. I have found the thread by sulky tends to have the same sheen as the panne fabric.
For the belt base
Buckram ~ Buckram is a stiffened cloth that can be found in the utility fabrics. This is going to be the foundation of your belt so you need enough to go around your hips with overlap. (If you plan to make a two part belt with separate front and back pieces you need more overlap.)
Heavy Interfacing ~ This is stiff and thick (probably between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick). I believe what you want is sometimes called "craft interfacing". I usually get "Extra Heavy" or "Ultra Firm" It is on a bolt and sold by the yard. I recommend getting double sided fusible. (If you can't find fusible interfacing you can get wonder under to do the fusing or you can sew the layers together). You need enough to go around your hips with overlap. (If you plan to make a two part belt with separate front and back pieces you need more overlap.)
Note: I have a friend who makes her belt bases out of the same aida cloth and ez felt I recommend for the back strap of the bra. This is an option if you prefer it to the buckram and interfacing method. You will need wonder under to fuse the layers or to sew them together. I personally don't like the aida cloth/ez felt method for belts since I can't get the ez felt in a length large enough to do the belt in one (or even two) pieces. However since it is your belt, if you like the idea of aida cloth & ez felt, just make sure to get enough to go around your hips with overlap. The basic technique will be the same as for the buckram/interfacing base.
Quilt batting ~ Quilt batting will add dimension to your belt. You will use quilt batting whether you are going with buckram/interfacing base or aida cloth/ez felt base. Quilt batting comes in a roll in a package based on bed sizes. You need enough to go around your hips with overlap. (If you plan to make a two part belt with separate front and back pieces you need more overlap.) I think I purchased a King size piece and am still using off the original purchase having made six belts.
Craft Paper ~ Basically you want enough paper to go around your hips with overlap to create a pattern for your belt. You can get brown craft paper on a roll, or you could use newsprint, old news papers, regular copy paper, wrapping paper or any other kind of paper. Just tape enough together to go around your hips if you are using something that isn't that long.
Other basic sewing supplies:
Scissors ~ You will need regular scissors for cutting paper and tape, heavy scissors for cutting fabric and small sharp scissors for cutting threads (this is three different pairs for me).
Straight pins (and a tomato) ~ You can use safety pins if you prefer, but straight pins work better. I like the kind with the colored balls on the end, but plain metal ones will work. You will want something to keep your pins together, a tomato pin cushion will work, or you can get a magnetic pin cushion or just a box to keep your pins in.
Standard sewing needles (sharps, size 5 or 6 and size 10) ~ Needles for hand sewing come in a confusing variety of sizes and styles. I recommend using sharps, though betweens (also called quilting needles) would work as well. Sharp and between needles are sized 1-10 with the larger the number, the smaller the needles (this is the opposite of sewing machine needles). For sewing fabric, you want a needle big enough so it doesn’t bend (or break) when you push it through your material, but small enough not to leave holes in your fabric – the needle should be sliding through the threads of the weave and not breaking the threads. For beading, you can use a size 10 sharp, it will go through most beads, or you can purchase special beading needles which range in size from 10-15. For beading onto a dance belt or bra, I usually use sharps size 10. Though I have purchased short beading needles when working with especially small beads. Long beading needles will be too flexible and not strong enough to go through the base material without bending.
Pencil & eraser ~ This is to draw your pattern, so make sure it will show up on the paper you chose for your belt pattern. You can use a pen if you prefer, but a pencil will make it easier to make changes to your design.
Tape (scotch or masking) ~ You will make darts in your pattern. You can use straight pins to hold those darts together while you are creating the pattern, but once you have the pattern you will want to tape the darts down to make them permanent. You may also need tape to put together several pieces of paper to make a long enough piece to go around your hips.
Optional supplies, not necessary, but they may make your task easier
Other supplies you will need eventually
For the bra cups:
The bra ~ An underwire bra with stiff cups. This can be hard to find for larger cup sizes. The stiffer the better, but do NOT use water or gel filled cups. I will show you how to reinforce the cups, so get the stiffest ones you can find, but don't worry if they collapse when you poke them. Don't spend a bunch of money on the bra, one from walmart/kmart/target etc will work fine. Only the cups need to fit, or you can get a cup size larger and pad it if you want more oomph. You are going to cut the straps off so don't worry about what the shoulder and back straps look like. We will also cover how to make the center part bigger (if you can only find one with a narrow connection between the cups and want more coverage) and how to add shape to the top of the cups. I recommend a color that is either the same or lighter than the color you plan to cover the bra with. I tend to get white or nude bras for covering. Note a bright orange will show through light colored fabric!
Boning ~ Boning is a strip of heavy plastic inside a cloth casing. It is optional but I highly recommend it for anything cup size C or larger (and it won't hurt anything to add it to the smaller cup sizes). Boning will add stability to your bra cups so they don't collapse under the weight of the decorations and will help the cups keep their shape. You can find boning in with the notions. It comes in a spool and is generally sold by the yard. Depending on how large your cup size is and how many places you want to put the boning (there are three possibilities) you will need 1/2 to 3 yards. Yes this is a wide range, but you will use the same boning on all your bedlah projects. I tend to buy a bunch and keep it on hand for when I need it.
For the straps (shoulder and back):
Grosgrain ribbon ~ This is the ribbon that is ribbed. It does not stretch when you tug on it, though the ends will ravel. We will use the ribbon to make non-stretch shoulder straps. I tend to purchase between 1/2" and 7/8" ribbon for shoulder straps. Like the bra, I tend to purchase white or beige ribbon (or because I like purple, lavender). The kind of shoulder straps you plan to use will determine what width ribbon you need. For halter type strap, a wide ribbon works well as it distributes the weight better. For over the shoulder or crisscross straps, narrower widths work better. Wider ribbon is easier to cover with your fabric than narrow ribbon. Check out websites that sell bedlah's for shoulder strap ideas. There are lots of options, including many asymmetrical looks. If you are a small cup size, you can also purchase a wide ribbon (2-3") to use as the back strap.
Aida Cloth ~ I've tried a number of different options for the back strap of the bra and this is my current favorite Aida cloth is the fabric used in counted cross stitch. It is fairly sturdy and doesn't stretch, especially when combined with craft felt. If you are looking for Aida cloth, look in with the needle point/cross stitch supplies. While grosgrain ribbon will work for the back strap, it isn't stiff enough to be structural, so if you need support from the bra, it is better to go with something sturdier than ribbon. I've also used buckram for the back strap, however, buckram deforms when wet and then keeps the shape it gets left in, so if you sweat while dancing your bra can end up with a "crumpled" looking back strap. Since you will have buckram for the belt, if you prefer to go that route, feel free.
Stiffened Craft Felt (aka EZ Felt) ~ This is stiffened felt, usually located in with the craft supplies. In Topeka, I've only ever seen 9x12 sheets, but online I've seen 12x18 sheets. The felt comes in many colors, so just like with the ribbon, I tend to pick white so a bright color doesn't show through my fabric. I like my back strap to be wide, so I usually get one side of the back strap out of each piece of 9X12 felt. If you like a narrower back strap you may be able to get both sides out of one piece.
Note: The aforementioned supplies will work if you want a traditional shoulder strap/back strap configuration. If you want the kind of straps that go from the cups, over the shoulders, through D-rings and then tie, you will need one width of ribbon and a couple of D-rings. I have not made that style of straps before but can give you directions on how to do so.
To cover the bra and belt:
Fabric & Thread ~ To cover the bra and belt you will need a stretch fabric. I like crushed velvet (panne) because the knap of the fabric tends to hide the stitches and it tends to be forgiving of little puckers that can appear. If you want a shiny foundation for your bra and belt, liquid lame would also work, but since it is a smooth fabric, stitches would be more visible. I try to match the color and sheen of my fabric when choosing my thread. I have found the thread by sulky tends to have the same sheen as the panne fabric.
For the belt base
Buckram ~ Buckram is a stiffened cloth that can be found in the utility fabrics. This is going to be the foundation of your belt so you need enough to go around your hips with overlap. (If you plan to make a two part belt with separate front and back pieces you need more overlap.)
Heavy Interfacing ~ This is stiff and thick (probably between 1/16 and 1/8 inch thick). I believe what you want is sometimes called "craft interfacing". I usually get "Extra Heavy" or "Ultra Firm" It is on a bolt and sold by the yard. I recommend getting double sided fusible. (If you can't find fusible interfacing you can get wonder under to do the fusing or you can sew the layers together). You need enough to go around your hips with overlap. (If you plan to make a two part belt with separate front and back pieces you need more overlap.)
Note: I have a friend who makes her belt bases out of the same aida cloth and ez felt I recommend for the back strap of the bra. This is an option if you prefer it to the buckram and interfacing method. You will need wonder under to fuse the layers or to sew them together. I personally don't like the aida cloth/ez felt method for belts since I can't get the ez felt in a length large enough to do the belt in one (or even two) pieces. However since it is your belt, if you like the idea of aida cloth & ez felt, just make sure to get enough to go around your hips with overlap. The basic technique will be the same as for the buckram/interfacing base.
Quilt batting ~ Quilt batting will add dimension to your belt. You will use quilt batting whether you are going with buckram/interfacing base or aida cloth/ez felt base. Quilt batting comes in a roll in a package based on bed sizes. You need enough to go around your hips with overlap. (If you plan to make a two part belt with separate front and back pieces you need more overlap.) I think I purchased a King size piece and am still using off the original purchase having made six belts.
Craft Paper ~ Basically you want enough paper to go around your hips with overlap to create a pattern for your belt. You can get brown craft paper on a roll, or you could use newsprint, old news papers, regular copy paper, wrapping paper or any other kind of paper. Just tape enough together to go around your hips if you are using something that isn't that long.
Other basic sewing supplies:
Scissors ~ You will need regular scissors for cutting paper and tape, heavy scissors for cutting fabric and small sharp scissors for cutting threads (this is three different pairs for me).
Straight pins (and a tomato) ~ You can use safety pins if you prefer, but straight pins work better. I like the kind with the colored balls on the end, but plain metal ones will work. You will want something to keep your pins together, a tomato pin cushion will work, or you can get a magnetic pin cushion or just a box to keep your pins in.
Standard sewing needles (sharps, size 5 or 6 and size 10) ~ Needles for hand sewing come in a confusing variety of sizes and styles. I recommend using sharps, though betweens (also called quilting needles) would work as well. Sharp and between needles are sized 1-10 with the larger the number, the smaller the needles (this is the opposite of sewing machine needles). For sewing fabric, you want a needle big enough so it doesn’t bend (or break) when you push it through your material, but small enough not to leave holes in your fabric – the needle should be sliding through the threads of the weave and not breaking the threads. For beading, you can use a size 10 sharp, it will go through most beads, or you can purchase special beading needles which range in size from 10-15. For beading onto a dance belt or bra, I usually use sharps size 10. Though I have purchased short beading needles when working with especially small beads. Long beading needles will be too flexible and not strong enough to go through the base material without bending.
Pencil & eraser ~ This is to draw your pattern, so make sure it will show up on the paper you chose for your belt pattern. You can use a pen if you prefer, but a pencil will make it easier to make changes to your design.
Tape (scotch or masking) ~ You will make darts in your pattern. You can use straight pins to hold those darts together while you are creating the pattern, but once you have the pattern you will want to tape the darts down to make them permanent. You may also need tape to put together several pieces of paper to make a long enough piece to go around your hips.
Optional supplies, not necessary, but they may make your task easier
- needle threader
- Thimble (I like plastic thimbles as they don't break my thread the way metal ones do)
- A tape measure, ruler or other measuring device
- Chalk/marking pen for use on fabric
- Paper and pencil to sketch ideas and take notes
- Desk lamp & extension cord
- Craft magnifying stand (or reading glasses)
Other supplies you will need eventually
- Pant hook & eyes – these are large and flat and will be used to close the bra and the belt
- Snaps – you might want some of these in addition to the hooks and for extra security (optional)
- Padding (old shoulder pads for example) if you want to increase cup size (optional)
- flannel (or old bra) to line the bra, flannel to line the belt
- Stuff
to decorate it with, this can include some of the following: sequined trim or braid, sequins,
beads, appliqués, jewels, crystals,
fringe (beaded or chainette), glue (I use E6000), chains, tassels, mirrors,
shells, coins and anything else you think you would like to decorate with.